Monday, June 13, 2011

I like toast and jam



Every year around this time, I've had enough of winter and preserved food and I start to really crave fruit. Rhubarb works for awhile, but it doesn't stop me from getting super excited once the first berries are available. Tres found the first strawberry stand this week and got me enough to finally try out the jam recipe I've had my eye on since my sister-in-law gave me a preserving book for Christmas in 2010. I'm happy to say that it was worth the wait. If you get your hands on Eugenia Bone's Well Preserved, I highly recommend the strawberry balsamic jam. I did tweak it a bit, to my own taste, but for the most part, followed the recipe pretty explicitly.


First, I heated up the berries, until they were boiling.



Next, I added sugar and a little butter (apparently, it helps with the foam) and simmered it until it had somewhat reduced.


Then, I took it off the heat, added the balasamic vinegar, jarred it and put it in a water bath.



She suggests you scoop the berries out with a slotted spoon and jar those alone, saving the syrup separately. Even though I made a double batch (which supposedly yields 12 half pints), I would have only had about 4 half pint jars if I had followed her instructions. I suggest using the slotted spoon to fill the jar about 1/3 -1/2 full of berries and then the rest with syrup, before canning. I still only ended up with 9 1/2 jars, but I always seem to end up with fewer jars than a recipe suggests. Once cooled, I found the syrup gelled up fairly well. It really is more like a cross between a flavored syrup and a jam, as it doesn't have any added pectin or other thickeners, but it's also super tasty and an excellent way to capture the deliciousness of fresh spring berries.

Saturday, June 11, 2011

I like bread and butter.

Today I'm going to give detailed instructions on my method of making bread. It's not the only way to make bread, but it makes very good loaves with minimal time and effort. My recipe comes primarily from three sources: the french bread recipes in "Mastering the Art of French Cooking Vol II" and "Artisan Bread in 5 minutes a day", as well as trial and error. As usual, the Julia Child recipe has very good instructions, but is far too complicated for everyday use. Anyway, here goes;

1. Put the following ingredients in a Kitchen Aid mixer with the dough hook attachment and blend for a few moments:
8 cups flour (about 2 pounds)
1.5 T salt
1 scant T dry yeast 

Initial mixing of dry ingredients

Notes:
- Julia Child's recipe calls for something like 2 T salt, which makes a noticeably salty bread. You may like that, but I don't care for it. 
- I never bother proofing yeast anymore. I've never had a recently purchased dry yeast culture fail me when it is kept in the fridge. Sometimes people kill their yeast by proofing them in water that is too hot. 
- I use iodized salt in bread and non-iodized for everything else. No reason to tempt the goiter fairy. 
- There are many options for the flour portion of the recipe. Our main flour is white unbleached and almost always will make up 50% of the flour in the recipe. Sometimes I make plain white bread, which rises very well and has a pleasant chewy crumb. Most of the time I use 50% white and 50% whole wheat flour. This still makes a very light loaf, but is a bit heartier. You can make a good loaf from 100% whole wheat, but it will not be as light using this recipe. Assuming you use white flour as the base, you can actually use up to 25% of any other grain and produce a good loaf. My favorite addition is rye, but I've also tried grits, oats, pearl barley, flax seeds and pretty much whatever else I have had around the kitchen at the time. Do what suits your taste. 

2. Add water gradually while mixing on low speed, then continue to knead for 3-5 minutes
This is a step that requires experience. You will need to add probably between 3-4.5 cups of water to make your dough, but the amount of water required will vary depending on the flour (and even the water) that you are using. Add the water gradually. You want a pliable, moist and well mixed dough at the end, but it shouldn't be slumpy or too sticky (sticky wet dough can make a delicious loaf, but it will probably won't be so pretty). Add enough water before kneading to make the dough seem a little too wet, then knead until the dough absorbs that moisture and gathers around the dough hook, cleaning up the mixing bowl in the process. 

The dough has come together and 'cleaned' the bowl

3. Allow dough to rise covered in a warm location
- I leave the dough in the mixing bowl for the rising. I make dough sometime on Saturday and make bread sometime Sunday afternoon.
- I don't bother punching down the dough unless I notice it overflowing the mixing bowl. Deflating the dough is supposed to redistribute the gas-filled holes in the dough and make a more even loaf.
- Rising time can vary depending on your needs. The longer you let dough rise, the more flavorful it will be. If it is too hot or if you don't have time to get to making the bread, dough can be left to rise in the fridge overnight or for up to a week I wouldn't leave the dough at room temp for more than 48 hrs.
- I also wouldn't try to make bread with a rise time of less than 8 hrs. The rise time develops the flavor; if you have less time than this you might as well make a quickbread.
Dough after rising

4. Form 3 loaves and allow to rise an additional hour. For the second half-hour of the rise time, pre-heat the oven to 400-450F. 
-This is an essential part of the bread making process. The goal of this step is to create an loaf that will rise in the oven and create an attractive, even, light loaf without 'blow-outs' due to rapid rising in the oven. There are a lot of loaf shapes, but the overall goal is to create a continuous envelope of gluten around the loaf, sometimes called a 'cloak'. I've included a video of me making round loaves.
-The additional rise time is also essential. This allows the dough to relax enough to expand rapidly in the oven without blowing out.
- After you get the dough out of the bowl onto your work surface, immediately wash the mixing bowl. This makes cleaning a lot easier.
Dough cut into three parts

A video demonstrating loaf formation

5. Cut top of loaves, place in oven and bake at 400-450F for 25-35  minutes, depending on your oven. 
- Make 5-7 slits in the top of the loaves (a serrated bread knife works well). This step also prevents blow-outs in the loaf. For some reason, making the slices at a 45 degree angle to the top of the loaf seems to make a prettier end product.
- There are a lot of variations in the way people bake bread. Some people want a blazing hot oven. Some people place a tray of water in the oven to create a steam bath for the loaves, which they think helps the dough to expand without cracking. Some people start the oven very hot, then cool it off. I don' t bother with any of this.
- I do bother with using a pizza stone in the oven. I think that having a good hot stone in the oven makes for a light, even loaf. We have a large stone that sits in the oven pretty much all of the time.
- When the bread is done, the loaves will be brown on the exterior and have a hollow sound when the bottom is tapped.
 Cutting 'speed holes' in top of loaves

6. Allow the bread to cool on a rack.
- Properly cooled bread will have a better interior texture
- Invest in a breadbox. Your bread storage location should allow enough air to circulate to discourage mold growth, but be closed enough to keep the loaves fresh. I'd say the breadbox probably extends the fresh life of our bread by maybe 1/3rd.
The finished product
Have fun!

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Signed, sealed, delivered

Well, friends, we are getting down to it. The living room, hallways, and dining room were tiled this week and parts were grouted. They will come back in the later part of this week to finish up.

tiles grouted (and, obviously, not washed)

They didn't finish the tiling because our truck of "everything else that goes in the house" arrived on Thursday (and it was agreed that it made more sense to install cabinets before tiling the kitchen and bathrooms). They left the trailer here and unloaded most of it on Friday.


cabinets


kitchen cabinets, in place



doors



water heater, dishwasher, and miscellany

toilets and faucets

stove and light fixtures

moldings

Tres and I made a trip to recycle all of the cardboard they've discarded from unloading thus far (which felt a lot better than going to the dump!), but otherwise haven't had many house responsibilities this week. There are a few still to come, but it was nice to have a little breather before the last push to finish.

Friday, June 3, 2011

You better come on in my kitchen

As I mentioned in my last post, we've got a lot of greens coming up in the garden. Despite our best attempts to share with the neighbors, we can't eat enough salads to keep up. A year or so ago, while buying early spring greens at the farmer's market and craving summer herbs, I wondered if I couldn't make pesto with arugula. It's a strong flavor, albeit quite different from basil, so I gave it a whirl and thought it was pretty good. Definitely not the same thing, but a nice spring-y flavor and something different to do with greens. With our inundation of arugula these past few weeks, it seemed incumbent on me to make something that would use up a significant amount so, time for pesto! I realize arugula is not so plentiful for everyone and it might seem crazy to do this, when you could have a delicious salad or put it in some other dish. I don't disagree, but if you're looking for something new. . . here ya go:


Arugula Pesto
(all measures approximate - I would start here and tweak as you desire)
2 cups arugula, washed and dried
2 cloves garlic, chunked (I find it helps to pre-chop this a bit, to avoid garlic clumps in your final product)
1/4 cup olive oil (the only measure I tend to stick to religiously, but I don't like my pesto too oily)
1/2 cup toasted hazelnuts (you could use any nut here, although I don't know how delicious pesto-traditional pine nuts would be with arugula - might be too bitter)
1/4 cup parmesan cheese (I always use more - probably more like 1/2 cup at least)
salt and pepper to taste
Your favorite pasta


Toast nuts in 375° oven for 15 minutes (be vigilant, so they don't burn). While the nuts are toasting, blend arugula and garlic in a food processor until combined (admire the beautiful, rich green color!).



Add nuts and blend until incorporated.



Drizzle in oil while processor is running. Add cheese (I usually grate this in, rather than adding chunks, but I leave the method to your discretion), salt, and pepper and blend. Taste and add more ingredients as needed (if it is too bitter, which is always the case for me at this point, I find adding cheese and salt to be the most helpful).


Put on top of your favorite pasta and eat (I usually like to top it with a little more grated parmesan).



A few additional notes:
  • the measures are just jumping off points - everyone has their own tastes and pesto is one of those dishes that lends itself especially to adjusting and improvising as needed,
  • make sure the arugula tastes good (this is is NOT a recipe for older, bitter/super spicy arugula - you're eating a concentrated, larger amount than you normally would in another dish),
  • I've always thought that this would be super delicious with fresh tomatoes, but tomato and arugula season have never matched up for me; if you have some, I would definitely add a few and see what you think,
  • don't expect this to taste at all like basil pesto - it's not meant to be a substitute, but really an entirely different dish.

Wednesday, June 1, 2011

A treatise on bread and the economics of home breadmaking: It's all about the Benjamins, baby

Bread is deceptively simple in many ways. It is, at its heart, a simple preparation of ground and cooked grain; like gruel, but thicker. You don't see anybody getting excited about gruel. I'm the kind of person who would like to be excited about gruel, and I still find it a difficult proposition. Bread, on the other hand, is very easy to like. At its best, bread is chewy, flavorful, addictive. Undoubtedly, an important aspect of the appeal of bread is the partial fermentation of the dough by yeast, which produces nice flavors. This too is a kind of marvel though, as anyone who has drunk bad home-brewed beer can attest. Bread provides the perfect backdrop to so much food, adding to it without overpowering it. Bread also comes in such a variety of forms: quickbreads, yeast-breads or flatbreads; pan-baked, oven-baked, fried or steamed; wheat, rye, corn, and whatever else may be at hand.

No matter the form it takes, however, the most essential aspect of bread is it's ability to keep humans fed. Actually, the ability to keep humans fed is an essential aspect of cereal grains in general.... bread does more: it keeps humans fed and happy. It contains whatever quality it is that turns sustenance into prosperity. It is one of the first luxuries that people will buy when they have spending money. And when food prices go up, its the price of bread that really brings hunger to the door.

Anyway, these musings were spawned by my deciding to look and see what bread cost at the store. It was $3.19 for a 1.5 pound loaf of mid-range whole wheat bread. I had no idea, as I've been baking bread for us, every week, for the last 4 years now. I do it because the bread I produce at home is far superior to the stuff from the store. I've always suspected it was an economical endeavor as well, but I've never really sharpened my pencil until today.

Costs of bread making per week (three 1.3 pound loaves):

Unbleached white flour: 2 pounds from a 50 pound bag...... $0.60
Yeast: 1 T from a large jar of dry yeast................................$0.33
Salt: 2 T Iodized salt........................................................... $0.01
Electricity:  2 kwh to run electric oven at $0.14 per kwh
                 .1kwh to run well pump and mixer......................$0.26
Kitchen Aid mixer: depreciation of 1/1000th of value............$0.35
My time..............................................................................20 min

The total comes to $1.20 per week for expenses, or $62.57 per year. Compare this to $442 if the same amount of bread were purchased at the store. To look at it another way, the savings from this industry amounts to my being paid $22 per hour to do something I like to do. This calculation does not take into account the superior product produced at home.

Someday I'll be a farmer, working the land

After our action-packed weekend/beginning of last week, things were pretty quiet around here for a few days. On Thursday, they started to install the backer board for the tile (basically like cement sheetrock for your floor, as far as I can tell) and were here all weekend finishing that and starting to lay out tile. Seeing it go in really brings home (no pun intended) the fact that we're getting close to finishing the house.


subflooring installed

all of our tiles

tiles in bedroom 3 (they're stuck down, but not grouted)

Tres and I spend Saturday and part of Sunday loading up the truck with debris (sheetrock, painting stuff, and other miscellaneous scraps) and taking them to the dump. It was more than a little depressing to have throw out so much garbage, but it felt good to get it out of our yard (and it was necessary, as the semi that will deliver everything else that goes in the house - cabinets, appliances, doors, toilets, sinks etc. - will come this week and they need to be able to park as close to the house as possible).


the garden (this is a composite of 2 pics, so it
looks a little wonky, but you get the idea)

But, that's not what I wanted to focus on in this entry. Our garden is going gangbusters, despite the unseasonably cool weather we've been having for the past couple of months, and I wanted to show off all of Tres' hard work. We are in the greens in a major way, along with some radishes.


lettuces

my favorite: Esmeralda (a butter lettuce)

mustard and turnip greens

The peas are flowering and growing some small fruits - they will be ready in the next few weeks - and carrots are also ready to start picking this week.

 snap peas

field peas

carrots


Then, there are the up-and-comers:


wheat


cabbages


fava beans


corn


eggplants


garbanzo beans


turnips


potatoes


peppers


quinoa (probably the prettiest plant in the garden)


quinoa close up


tomatoes


tomatoes close up
And those that have finished up.

arugula, gone to seed